Venezuela and Bonaire updates

Boat robbed and assaulted between Lost Testigos and Margarita. "we were attacked by pirates at approx. N011 05.000 W063 23.000 (4 1/2 hr sail west of Los Testigos en route to Porlamor at 10:00 a.m. Venezuela time. We were assaulted, held at gunpoint and they ransacked Boldly Go taking all valuable items they could carry back in their 16' pinero (wooden boat). Jim and are fine. Only moments of psychological fear remain. We'll heal."

Some people using credit cards in money machines are apparently getting ripped off, with cash taken elsewhere.

Local Newspapers yesterday informed of another sailor killed in his boat.In this opportunity was a USA citizen,Keneth Dale Peters 55y.He was sailing with his wife Chathy.His boat name is Chill-.Another US citizen was injuered while trying to help.He was getting ready to leave the area when he was attacked to be robed.They were at La Borracha in Mochima.

Chris when I see this situation a get worried and doubt if we put enough warnings regarding security in the guide.I hope you include this information in the web page and advice the importance of having as much security as possible in Venezuela and preferable to anchor in marinas when possible.

I have had tragic news of the murder last Sunday of a French yachtsman who anchored his Catamaran in front of Caraballeda Marina. Four guys swam to the boat and shot him while trying to rob the boat .His wife survived. This story is not different form those happening every day in mainland in where delinquency has taking the country. The fellow's name was Philipe Arman Leudire(61).The boats name is "Chrysalide". I think is important specially for those who read our Venezuelan Guide that this note is included in your website. September 17 2008.

Los Roques
We thought you'd be interested in our experience today attempting to check into Los Roques.
We arrived at Grand Roque yesterday morning (Monday Jan 11) from Guadeloupe. We were very tired so we raised our quarantine flag, knowing that we check in the next morning. This morning while inflating our dinghy we were approached by the Guarda Costa and asked for our papers. We advised them that we were going into town to check in as soon as the dinghy was assembled. They seemed happy and went away.
We went into town about 11am and went directly to the office of the Guarda Costa where we met the same two officers. The looked at our papers and asked us some questions, determining that we had no plans to go on to Venezuela. Our intended route is Guadeloupe, Los Roques, Bonaire. We were told that we could only stay for two days. We asked about the 14 days, and they said no, only two days. I asked for perhaps a week, and they replied that it would be a "personal" approval and they would need to talk with the other officials first. They told us not to go to the parks office. They told us they would come by the boat later.
They did come by the boat about 3pm, and told us that for $500USD they could grant us a "special permit" to stay for seven days rather than the usual two days. We showed them the Doyle guide and asked about the $2/ft , $13/person and 14 day stay. We were told that that was the case only if we had already checked in to Venezuela.
They told us otherwise we could only stay for two days, and that we would have to leave by Friday. I verified by repeating that we had to leave by Friday, and he confirmed Friday.
We only got the name of one officer, "Marcos".
Clearly the rules are somewhat fluid in Los Roques. Best regards, Russ

In summary, if you do not clear in properly in a port of clearance before you get to Los Roques you will only get two days. I imagine that is the regulation. My rates were for someone who had cleared in.

A couple of comments based on a recent visit to Guiria by ferry and 2 nights in town whilst on a trip from Chaguaramas to Angel Falls.

2. The Hotel Plaza is the street side name for the building that includes the Plaza restaurant.

3. The fancy bakery (Exactly as you described but I didn’t see the name Chaceca anywhere) is located on the same cross street as El Timon restaurant one block south of where it is shown on the town map (Calle Bideau?).

4. Another marine agency, Acosta y Asociados located at Calle Bolivar No.33 is Pier One Agent (Trinidad Ferry) and according to at least one blog, will clear in visiting yachts. The agency is approximately where the bookstore is shown on the town map.

Medregal Village update, Posted early Aug 05 There are a few small changes to the write up we do in the guide.

If Jean-Marc does your clearance, ask him to explain who you should check with on you way out.

While Madregal Village has VHF radios for calling out, they do not normally monitor incoming calls.

In addition to their laundry, where machines are occasionally out for service, there is a girl down the road who does laundry.

Wifi operates to a distance of about 30 meters around the bar, not very high speed. TV is no longer offered.

The mini market is not part of the premises as the guide says but a short way down the road..

Work on the slip is done by three contractors; Bernard who does paint, Michel who des glass repairs, and currently there is a mechanic. There is no woodwork shop. There is not chandlery but they have a 72 hour system of brining stuff in.

There is a pleasant Swedish couple running a great little pizza place close by. They don't open every day.

Since November 11, 2009, They have been hauling-out catamarans, at the same price that we do for mono hulls (concerning Live on Board & Long Storage).

We visited Isla de Margarita yesterday and, as advised by both your guide and other sailors who had been there at the end of last year, we went immediately to Juan Baro. As you rightly say he is most charming. Alas the story he had for us was less so. A new port captain was appointed two weeks ago. As part of his apparent drive to eliminate corruption in his sphere of influence he is now taking up to 2 weeks to clear a yacht in and out, although what the connection is escapes me.
We decided to cut and run because there was no way we could be stuck there for 2 weeks - another sailor is still stuck there. May I suggest that your website contains a warning - either do not visit or be prepared to spend 2 weeks

When you arrive at Porlamar, Margarita there is now a simple check in office where customs, immigration and the port captain are located. So if you wish it is easy to do yourself. Do not let people tell you you have to clear in and out of each area.
Article 38 of the Marine Activities Law of Venezuela clearly states that foreign or national boats involved in recreation are EXEMPT from national check in and out after having cleared in Internationally. Venezuela is like any other island or country...you check in when you arrive and out when you leave. Lawyers for the Sucre State Chamber of Tourism are also asking for any official or person be reported who tries to convince boaters that they must continually check in and out as this is a corrupt process. Their email is camaradeturismosucre@hotmail.com

Your guide refers to Alex and Maria and their Posada del Kitesurfista under Isla Coche and Western Coche Punta Playa To Punta El Boton. They do not have the Posada anymore and now live on their sailboat Friendly Rival at Porlamar Margarita. Alex now provides many services to cruisers including, taxi, procurement of anything you need, spanish/english translation, info re money exchange and off course his favorite, kite surfing lessons.
Alex and Maria have helped us and many other cruisers and we have never heard anything bad, always good.

In your Venezuela update there is an erroneous post that states that Jack' (sic) restaurant passed through new management only to close again. This is not the case. The restaurant, now known as Sunset Bar & Grill is open from noon to midnight ('til dawn, some nights) Monday trough Saturday, featuring an extensive menu of cruiser favourites (burgers, steaks, fish and chips, pizza, etc) along with some of the exotic Thai food Jak was famous for. The prices are reasonable, the servings are generous and the restaurant has been renovated and improved in many ways to make it more comfortable and spacious. Chris and Sandra of the S/V Nomotos have given a fair and objective appreciation of our restaurant to which I could add much but will let their few words serve for thier simple honesty.

Since Nomtos left Sunset has developed a very successful music business offering live bands, jazz, rock, latin traditional and contemporary as well as Cuban themes, Wednesday through Saturday nights. Tonight, Wednesday, is Jazz night and the combo consists of a keyboard, cuatro and 6-string bass. Really good stuff.

Sunset is definitely open for business and we're not looking to sell. For those who knew Jak's, they'll know where to find us; for newcomers, we're just next to Juan Baro on the way over to Vemasca.

Terry Bannon,

Susnet Brr & Grill

Porlamar

http://www.sunsetmargarita.com.ve

I saw the following letter from John Smith in Compass and thought it well worth reprinting here. It is many years since I visited this yard, and sounds like it has grown a lot bigger and better. The mangrove swamp in Tyrrel Bay has grown in John’s memory if he thinks Carenero is only 5 times as big.

Astillero de Higuerote on the mainland of Venezuela is one of the best boatyards I have been in, especially in regard to security here in Venezuela. The yard is on a peninsula just adjacent to the capitaneria or port captain’s office, so clearance from foreign is easy. The port captain has authority to issue the ship clearance zarpe, which can be extended to 18 months before the vessel must leave the country for 45 days. The yard is large and has five travel lifts with the largest rated for 100 tons. It is airy and well maintained with plenty of free, clean water, free electricity and very clean restroom facilities. While showering in the outdoor facilities I watched a pair of osprey in a nearby tree and watched as three small owls explored the recently plowed and cleared surface of the surrounding land. The main town of Higuerote is a 20-cent, ten-minute bus ride away and the town boasts six good hardware stores and countless bakery/coffee shops as well as the normal plethora of street vendors selling a vast array of clothing, CDs and prepared food. On every corner are fruit markets, fish stalls and/or bodegas, at which a cold bottle of beer costs about 20 cents! The main beach (which I walk along to town) is about two miles long and never have I seen such a rich supply of shellfish being harvested on a daily basis. I walked into the gentle surf up to my knees and with bare hands was able to collect over three dozen small edible surf clams in less than one minute! Chipi-chipi, as they are known locally, are like very small New England quahogs and make a very similar tasting chowder. One must remember, however, to leave the clams in a bucket of seawater with some cornmeal for a while. The normal siphoning process of the clam will exchange the sand which it has carried from the sea with the cornmeal that has been added to the water, making a much more savory broth. Now that my haul out has been completed I am anchored 200 yards away on the opposite side of the channel at the entrance to an extensive mangrove lagoon area, Carenero, which must be five times the size of Carriacou’s. Sitting here in the late afternoons I watch flocks of red ibis, green parrots and pink flamingos returning from their day’s fishing, and on weekends the Venezuelans come out in family groups and camp on the beach at the head of the mangroves where there are benches and barbecue facilities. Unlike in my New England hometown, the tenting is not only allowed but is encouraged! And yes, there is ball playing, loud music, and open fires for cooking. In Connecticut about the only thing you can do on the beach is leave footprints and take pictures. (I certainly would not eat the shellfish from there any longer.) All the crowds in Puerto La Cruz oughta loosen up a little and check it out for themselves, but sometimes I think that the yachtsmen of today are a lot like the folks who have to put bars on all their windows for the “luxury” of living in a city.

I notice in the same Compass, two people had a narrow escape in Puerto Santos, and I would like to make a comment. As an area gets a bad reputation people stop going there. When people stop going there, you do not hear of horrible things because there are no yachties for horrible thing to happen to. Just something to keep in mind when you read the safety and security reports.

In the guide, we became hopelessly confused over the Vemasca stores, It turns out there are TWO separate stores that evolved from the store that was originally started by Denis Laesker. Both are owned by members of the family but completely separate from each other. A visit to both should be on your list of thing to do.

Vemasca Marine Supply is a chandlery and it is very conveniently placed right between Marina Juan and Marina Puerto Miguel in a block called Asovene. They sell a big range of yacht gear as well as fishing gear, everything from deck hardware to electronics and clothing, plus lots of stuff you need to work on your yacht. They also bring things in on special order and do all the paperwork. The ad for Vemasca Marine Supply is in the wrong place in our guide on page 182 in the Puerto la Cruz section. Ritchie speaks excellent English.

Vemasca Marine Services is another big chandlery in Porlamar and it also has another branch in Puerto La Cruz (Their ad is correctly placed on page 94, as is the location on page 95). Vemasca Marine Services also repair electronics and may be able to help with other problems. They are half a mile down the main road towards Porlamar (see picture). It is probably best to take a cab. It is also possible to either walk down the road or dinghy close by to the beach and walk, but do not do either of these until you have checked on the current security situation.

Getting things wrong in my guide is always bad news, but having TWO VEMASCA stores instead of one in Porlamar is excellent news!

The information I had when I did the new version of the guide was that I had not heard of many problems in this area. Update: Security is a problem in this area. Yacht Lady Anne with two people onboard suffered an armed robbery while anchored off the village. They stole all electronics and valuables.

Page 181 left column. Jose from Costa Rica retired, Kings service no longer in action.

A cruiser recommended staying very close to the starboard buoys for the deepest water. They squeezed in with 6 feet of draft at low tide. It is best to contact the management for the controlling depth before you go, they may have dredged by now.

There have been fewer incidents, but be alert. I got the following from he safety and security net. Check their web for the latest news

2. About 7 pm in the evening of June 23, a yacht anchored by themselves in Ensenada Toporo (about 1 mile north of Mochima Town in Mochima Park) was boarded by four armed men, who proceeded to beat up the captain and take numerous articles from the boat. The boat is UK registry, although the captain is Russian and his partner is German. They did report the attack to the local authorities in Mochima Town and then to the Guardia Costa in Cumana.

Hello. I just find out that in Venezuela Cumanagoto Marina has changed their phone number into 02934000347 and VHF watch on Ch.09. So maybe you will be so kind to update your useful guide. Thanks. Vincenzo Sparavigna SY Spirit of Hope

From Ellen Sanpere, Cayenne III (Thanks Ellen!)

Cayenne III is back in Puerto La Cruz. Here's a picture of the fuel dock near Bahia Redonda. Notice, a new paint job, but the fuel pumps are gone. Gasoline is available at the powerboat dock near Puerto del Este. Vemasca must have moved or folded - it is no longer in C.C. Puerto Ensenada.

Three "canal police" stopped us, as we went from Plaza Mayor to Bahia Redonda in the dinghy the other night, and said a curfew has been imposed on dinghy traffic in the canals, between 6PM and 8AM. Apparently, there was a serious accident one night involving some locals and some cruisers and an unlighted speeding dinghy. Vessels may enter the canal, but only to go home, and may not go outside. This certainly crimps our fun - no dinners at MareMares or the mall unless we take a taxi, and the roads are mobbed all day/night long. Traffic around Plaza Mayor is beyond belief!

The marinas and yards here are full, but there aren't any people hanging around as in the past. The Fundamigos mission is this week, but the cruiser fundraising is greatly reduced from last year. The restaurant at Bahia Redonda was redecorated, and the food has improved under new management. In addition to the Sunday dominoes game, people are playing Texas Hold'em poker and Parcheesi on Saturday.

Note from Chris: In the new guide I did not mention how long clearing took. I hope this is the extreme length of time. I would like to hear from others...

Well, we finally did get fuel in Venezuela: $.08/gal. at Cumanagoto marina in Cumana. They were pleasant and cheerful. The entrance was easy. The fuel dock is open 7AM-3PM. We took a slip for the night at $10.69, incl. water & electricity for a 44' boat and fueled up the next morning. Dinner at the RetroBar in the adjacent mall was excellent. Too bad there is no grocery store or produce market nearby.

We were told, the fuel dock in downtown PLC will sell fuel at Bs.1500/liter ($.576 USD) for less than 1000 liters. For larger loads, the vessel must obtain a permit from PDV. For awhile, some of the yard workers were bringing in 55 gal. drums of fuel, but that has been stopped.

We got the feeling the locals do not want cruisers in PLC - they want the rates to remain low and the cruisers are driving them up. In fact, there was one guy on the VHF several times a week loudly cursing the cruisers, especially those from the US.

Hi Chris, just a tip for easy navigating through the NE channel into los roques. on the southern most little island on the east side of francisqui there has been built a triangular reasonably large whit house, which is visibly for many miles from the outside (we picked it up in the early morning sun almost 5 miles out. when used in conjunction with your way point for the entrance it gives a clear and safe transit into the los roques. on a true course of about 220 you have a nice visual reference together with your gps waypoint. best personal regards, dick marx s.v. "Geramar"

Porlamar, more on Jack's - Now SUNSETyour Venezuela update there is an erroneous post that states that Jack' (sic) restaurant passed through new management only to close again. This is not the case. The restaurant, now known as Sunset Bar & Grill is open from noon to midnight ('til dawn, some nights) Monday trough Saturday, featuring an extensive menu of cruiser favourites (burgers, steaks, fish and chips, pizza, etc) along with some of the exotic Thai food Jak was famous for. The prices are reasonable, the servings are generous and the restaurant has been renovated and improved in many ways to make it more comfortable and spacious. Chris and Sandra of the S/V Nomotos have given a fair and objective appreciation of our restaurant to which I could add much but will let their few words serve for thier simple honesty.Since Nomtos left Sunset has developed a very successful music business offering live bands, jazz, rock, latin traditional and contemporary as well as Cuban themes, Wednesday through Saturday nights. Tonight, Wednesday, is Jazz night and the combo consists of a keyboard, cuatro and 6-string bass. Really good stuff.Sunset is definitely open for business and we're not looking to sell. For those who knew Jak's, they'll know where to find us; for newcomers, we're just next to Juan Baro on the way over to Vemasca.
Terry Bannon,
Susnet Bar & Grill
Porlamar

A man came around on one of those wonderful boats (peñeros) and handed out small flyers advertising La Casa Verte/The Green House. Polite and professional about it, so that encouraged us to visit and we were delighted that we did so.
We were anchored in Observation Bay

The restaurant is easily accessible by dragging your dinghy on the beach - the host and hostess were charming - two options only, lobster or fish (served with rice and coleslaw), service is impeccable - they offer soda, beer and wine - and while we were there the host/owner came out with binoculars and pointed out in the distance a sperm whale leaping about and thrashing its fluke - it was wonderful. Lobster was 70 bolivars and fish was 35 bolivars. Excellent food, great views of the ocean, highly recommended!

Joanna