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Exploring the natural side of Trinidad |
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Caroni Swamp One of the most famous nature destinations is the Caroni Swamp, where you can see Trinidad and Tobago’s national bird, the scarlet ibis. These sociable birds congregate at night on small mangrove islands that can only be approached by boat. The only practical way to see them is to join an organized tour. You will be taken by boat through a maze of mangrove channels that are home to herons, mangrove crabs, and oddities like the four-eyed fish. The climax of the trip, however, is seeing the scarlet ibis. The beauty of this gorgeous red bird, luminous in the late afternoon sun, is beyond description. The lowest level of the mangrove islands fills with snowy egrets, and little blue herons occupy the mid-level. Then the ibises arrive in small groups from their feeding grounds, gliding gracefully to roost until hundreds of them stand out like brilliant flowers against a dark green background. Asa Wright
Asa Wright is a spectacular a 200-acre nature preserve set in gorgeous mountain scenery at an elevation of about 1200 feet. To get there, take the eastern main road to Arima and then head north. The nature center was formerly part of a cocoa, coffee, and citrus plantation. In 1950 William Beebe established a tropical research station nearby and visiting scientists often stayed at the Wright’s. One of these, Don Eckelberry, a renowned bird painter, persuaded Asa Wright to turn her property into a reserve after the death of her husband. It is easy to sit for hours on the verandah of the beautiful old estate house, built in 1907, and watch the birds come to you. Well-stocked feeders bring hummingbirds, honeycreepers, woodpeckers, and many other birds right up close. The estate has daily tours with local naturalists who will point out many birds you would otherwise miss. You can also hike on any of the marked trails. A day here may not seem enough and they do have overnight accommodation, usually used by birding enthusiasts from the USA. You should book in advance for lunch, as it is miles from anywhere. There is a reasonable admission charge. Allow time to return by the northern route, which follows miles of breathtaking mountain and cliff-top scenery. Turtle Watching
Leatherback Turtle at Grande Riviere Everyone I met who had gone turtle watching was delighted. Seeing these giant reptiles emerge from the sea, their shells glistening in the moon, to struggle up the sand and lay their eggs — a behavior evolved millions of years ago — is enthralling. Trinidad is the best place in the Eastern Caribbean to experience this. Leatherback turtles, six to seven feet long and weighing up to a ton, are most commonly seen. The eggs take 60 days to hatch. From March to June, 30 to 60 turtles may arrive on some beaches in one night. Some nesting continues until September. While the volume of nesting turtles decreases after June, the chances of seeing young hatching out increases. Turtles nest on the northeast and east coast. Matura Bay is a popular and accessible site that is closely controlled and well run. There is a small government fee. One of the nicest places for a turtle watch is at Grande Riviere on Trinidad’s north coast. A bonus to this is that there are many excellent hikes in the Grande Riviere area, so any extra time you can arrange to spend, even half a day, will be well rewarded. If you carry on westward to the end of the road at Matelot and hike up the Matelot River, you will come to some beautiful falls with a big pool for swimming.
The Nariva Swamp The Nariva Swamp is Trinidad’s richest wildlife area. It is a swampy wetland home to a rich diversity of birds and animals. I remember in seeing in one day capuchin and howler monkeys, toucans, macaws, and host of other birds. The monkeys are particularly engaging and the noise of Howler Monkeys in full throat is an unforgettably awesome sound. The Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust
The Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust was started from within the Trinidad’s main oil refinery and is on its grounds. Its 60 acres include two lakes that are used as reservoirs for the refinery’s emergency fire and cooling systems. It was started in 1966 and now houses a captive breeding program where birds such as anhingas and scarlet ibises have recently hatched out. The lakes attract countless birds, including many ducks, geese, herons, storks and song birds. Look for gallinules and jacanas walking on the lily pads. Caimans can also be seen in the lakes. It is a wonderful place for a picnic and a good way to get acquainted with local and migrant birds.
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