Tobago Cays in December 07

I just spent a couple of days on the Tobago Cays. This is the first time I have visited since the park became active about a year ago. Before then, as readers of Compass will be aware, there had been a lot of controversy about how the park should be run and who should manage it. At one time the government planned to hand it over to Robert Barrett of the Palm Island. One line of logic I heard at the time is that Vincentians would lack the skills and abilities to run the park themselves. Happily opposition to that plan led to its collapse. After this many of us feared that, after the position taken by the Right Honorable Gonsalves on the Barrett issue, he might not be able to switch and put in a good team of locals to do the job. I am happy to say that at this point such thoughts seem to have been totally unfounded.

The progress the park has made in a year is significant; the government headed by the Right Honorable Gonsalves is to be congratulated for putting in a good team. The board of directors, the manager, Vibert Dublin and the rangers are making an excellent start, and showing that park can and should be a locally run.

Baradel has been returned to its pristine state. All litter and charcoal remnants, once the dominant features of the beach are gone. The vegetation has made an excellent comeback against the previous depredations of the goats.

I went out to Petit Tabac for the first time in years and found it also in a pristine condition. I did not visit Petit Rameau and Jamesby, but feel confident they are the same. Petit Bateau is the only island where cooking and t-shirt sales are allowed. It is clean and well cared for. A toilet, which is essential for day-tourists has been installed in a completely hidden and secluded area, which is exactly as it should be.

A series of small buoys now mark the turtle feeding area in front of Petit Baradel. These stop boats anchoring inside and help protect swimmers and turtles; it is well used and a huge success; nearly everyone that snorkels here manages to swim with the turtles. I think a useful addition to this would be two or three dinghy moorings close together right outside the entrance to this area, so that people wanting to snorkel, do not have to take their dinghy in at all but can leave it outside.

By and large the vendors are driving slowly and carefully within the speed limit.

There is more of a problem with yacht tenders. While the majority drove slowly, a few zoomed out to the reef at full speed, and one yachtsman was waterskiing through the anchorage on both Saturday and Sunday afternoon (no rangers were around at this time).

Part of the problem here is that at the moment, the users have no idea what is expected of them. I have no doubt this water-skier thought what he was doing was OK. The park clearly needs a leaflet to give out when you pay your fees that tell you the park regulations including the speed limit. I understand the park used to have such a document but is now out of them. In the meantime in the spirit of trying to help I have added some Park regulations and expected behavior in this article.

The small boat passage has been well-buoyed. We still need more dinghy buoys on the outer reef, and I understand these are coming soon. The reef, which suffered considerable hurricane damage, still has lots of fish, and the hard corals are beginning to make a comeback. I saw a lot of white sea urchins; these, along with the reef fish, will help keep the algae growth down and allow the reef to recover.

As a photographer and hiker I love to be able to walk to a good view-point where I can see the islands and yachts below. There are two good trails I know of, one of used to lead  to the high point on Petit Bateau, but now only goes as far as a rock about half way up, and the other to a view point on Jamesby. I think it would be excellent if these, and maybe one or two other trails were taken over and maintained by the park rangers in an ecologically friendly manner. It would enhance the experience of the park users and all those photographs taken from on high would do much do publicize the park.

The Tobago Cays, were perhaps at their most perfect natural state before the early 70s when they were barely visited. On this last visit I saw them closer to this original state than they have been for very many years. I would like to say “thank you” to the Park team for helping achieve this; also to the vendors who are clearly cooperating and making the park attractive.

The Tobago Cays does not need “improving” only a gentle managing hand. This is exactly what is happening now. I hope the management team will keep this in mind and consult with users before making any drastic changes, such as laying down a large number of yacht moorings, which could potentially harm the appearance of the natural beauty.

Park Regulations and Etiquette.

Please enjoy this magnificent park and help other to do so by obeying regulations and being considerate.

There is a 6-knot speed limit in the park area. This applies to all vessels, dinghies, water taxis and sailing boats. Please obey it and keep a good look out for swimmers. People swim throughout the area through the anchored yachts, to the reef and to the islands. The speed limit precludes water skiing and many water sports.

Please enjoy snorkeling and looking at the fish and turtles. They are there because this is a conservation area and no fishing is allowed. You may not collect or harm any kind of sea-creature including the corals. Do not take souvenirs in any form including shells and rocks. Take only pictures.

A turtle watching area has been established around the beach in Baradel. It is marked by a series of linked buoys. If you wish to snorkel in this area, either anchor your dinghy outside or take it directly (and very slowly) into the beach and pull it up on the sand. No anchoring or drifting with your dinghy is allowed in this area. Do not run your dinghy through this area except to go to and from the beach. Do not chase the turtles, if you keep about 6 feet away you will find them very tame. 

No fires may be made on the beaches, and the vegetation ashore is part of the park and should be left alone.

Do not discharge any oil, chemicals or other waste into the water. Do not pump your bilges in the park. Avoid using bleach and strong cleaners that get flushed overboard in the park.

Those wishing to scuba dive in the park must only do so with a local dive shop.

Be considerate. Some people get so excited at the beauty of the Tobago Cays, they think the way to complete the experience is to play their favorite music at top volume for the whole anchorage to hear. Cathartic as this might be for them, it may not be what others want. Keep any noise you make on your boat from music, generators and windmills low enough so it does not annoy your neighbor.