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Islands
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This is an irresistible group of islands with idyllic Gallic charm. They are small, dry, and steep, with red and brown cliffs. Mountains climb to over 1000 feet and white beaches abound. After a hard day’s sail, it is bound to be love at first sight. The only small town, Bourg des Saintes, is on the largest island, Terre D’en Haut. The Saintes have been French since shortly after they were colonized, and have long supported a small community that used to rely almost entirely on fishing. There is a strong link to the north of France, especially Brittany, and some years ago you could see beautiful Breton style fishing boats all along the waterfront. Boats are now designed to take the larger outboards. Since the islands were never agricultural, no slaves were imported, and the handful of inhabitants that are of African descent have arrived fairly recently. Bourg des Saintes is an adorable seaside town, sparkling clean and picturesque, with red roofs and a handful of those older Caribbean buildings that are all balconies and gingerbread. Flowers grow in abundance around the houses and no one is in a hurry. Local boats are anchored all along the waterfront. In the last two decades, tourism has become a major industry. Many ferries arrive each day from Pointe à Pitre, bringing an influx of day-trippers. There is a sort of rush hour when they arrive at 0900 and another when they leave at 1700. Locals make their living renting scooters, selling t-shirts, and feeding them. Terre D’en Haut is much quieter before they arrive and after they have gone. From a yachting point of view, the Saintes offer delightful choices: you can enjoy the restaurants, shops and life in Bourg des Saintes, and then, when you want real peace, you can migrate to Ilet à Cabrit or Terre d’en Bas. Fort Napoleon, built 1867, stands on a hill to the north of the town with a commanding view of the harbor. It is only open 0900 to noon, and there is a 20-franc entry charge which goes toward the upkeep of the fort. The fort has been magnificently restored. The whole of the top half is a well-tended garden of cactuses and succulents which are labeled so you can identify all those plants that have been stabbing you. When the aloes bloom they attract a horde of hummingbirds. As you look down on town through your camera viewfinder, every shot will look like a picture postcard. Inside a small museum has early furniture and a section on the famous battle of the Saintes when England’s Admiral Rodney demolished the French fleet under De Grasse in 1782.
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Les Saintes
