Updates to the 2018/19 guide
In 2017 the eastern Caribbean got slammed by the two most powerful hurricanes ever known. Hurricanes are a fact of life in the Caribbean, though really bad smashes, like these, are not that common. As is usual, most of the islands in the Eastern Caribbean were not affected, but those that lay in their direct path got smashed. Luckily both Caribbean people and islands are resilient, and they are coming back fast. You can already visit all of them. But just so you are aware this is a view of the affected islands as of early December 2017.
From Au Bon Vivre in Terre do Haut:
I am the new owner of the Restaurant “Au bon Vivre” based at Terre de Haut –
Les Saintes archipel – Guadeloupe.
We would like to be part of your guide again : the previous owner was on the
guide but stopped it before selling. We had a really good reputation and we
still have; even more right now due to improvements:
Since then, we have sought to improve our concept:
– the kitchen is now 100% homemade
– we cook more and more local products:
* fish exclusively from the Bay of Saintes or Guadeloupe
* fresh lobsters only: no frozen !!
* pork of Sainte Rose (Guadeloupe)
* local ice cream
– evolutionary menus
– choice available for vegans: entry, main course, dessert
– wine list of more than 60 references, elaborated with our sommelier
– Lunch menus from 21 € more suitable for a passing clientele
Our efforts have been rewarded since we have been promoted to Maître
Restaurateur, the only state label guaranteeing 100% homemade, (certified by
an independent organization)!
Looking forward to hearing from you,
Au bon Vivre
Petite-Terre now requires you to make a reservation to visit. You can do so at www.reservesdesiradepetiteterre.com.
Dear Mr. Doyle,
Thanks a lot for your usefulls cruising guides!We just went to les îles de la Petite-Terre in Guadeloupe and it has some changes since february this year. They requested booking of the moorings. As it is new, it is still ok without but not for long. In the 2nd semester of 2018 it will have reservation fees.It has-13 white mooring for the cruisers (one is out of order yet, but we suppose they are replacing it, as they took it away 2 days before). They are marked yellow on the picture enclosed-5 blue moorings (marked red on the picture) for the dayly tourists boats– 9 small white moorings (marked blue on the picture) for the dayly tourists speed boats– 4 orange dinghy moorings (marked green on the picture) near the beachIt has gardians/rangers on the island, looking that everythings goes well.The Terre de Haut is strictly forbidden to go on.It has bbq facilities, but it is forbiden to burn any wood. You have to bring your own charcoals.As you mention, we saw a lot of turtles, stingrays… and also barracudas and Dolphin fisches under the moorings. Babys lemon sharks hang around the beach in verry shallow water (about 1 foot from the beach).Kind regardsLaura(A swiss familly living on the catamaran OLENA)
Visit Anguilla anytime, In Sandy Ground, Elvis, Roys, Dolce Vita and Johnnos are all up and ready to welcome you. Food and all the normal services are available. Ripples may not open this season. Many other businesses are taking a breather and still rebuilding, but they nearly all plan to open by Christmas week when Anguilla will be pretty much back to normal.
St. Martin is up and running, most businesses are open, yachts are visiting, and you will be welcome. If you have any questions drop by Mike at Shrimpy’s in the canal in Marigot and he will give you updates. There are still, and will be, many wrecks in the lagoon for a long time to come, so care is needed when navigating. You will also see signs of damage ashore, and some areas are coming back slowly, especially on the French side. The main bridge into the lagoon is open at its normal times. The causeway bridge opens three times a day at 0800, 1000 and 1530. The French side bridge is not working at this time. Fuel, water, gasoline and diesel are all available, and most marinas have available berths though many are operating with only a partial number of slips. Captain Olivers, which sustained significant damage may not get back in action, though much of this is from bureaucratic problems. The big Grand Marche above Marina Port de Plaisance is closed and may not reopen. Home and Tools is also questionable. But ALL the regular yacht services and chandleries are open. Caraibes Diesel Services is open and working, but Because of damage to Geminga, they moved to Grand Case. They make boat visits. Give them a call.
All the lovely anchorages like Tintamarre, and Ile Pinel are as lovely as ever.
Everything is back up and running, Visitors are welcome.
We have just spent a few days on Barbuda (left March 7:th) and hope we can contribute with some information of interest to publish on your web page. We have not been here before so we can´t compare but give our present impressions. We anchored at Coco Pt. Lodge Harbour and took a long biking tour to Codrington.
- Area around Cocoa Point Lodge: Nothing is done since the Hurricane. Palm trees lay across the roads and there is no ongoing effort to rebuild anything. That is sad but means that there are no people, the beaches are beautiful and empty and you can anchor anywhere. The area is fantastic! Very few boats, turquois water, protecting reefs, there are fish on the reefs but we cannot say if it’s less than before.
- Mobile signal is very weak in the south of the island and there is no mobile data available.
- The road from the Barbuda express quay to Codrington is in perfect shape, concrete or asphalt surface.
- In Codrington houses are in all stages from collapsed to repaired.
- Customs and immigration are not back yet so check in or out must be handled on Antigua.
- In Codrington: 3G works fine, bank is closed but ATM is working, there is a food store and a very small and basic restaurant.
- The wild donkeys and horses are seen everywhere.
- The boat Barbuda Express is in traffic.
- There are people and cars in the island but the population must be much smaller than before Irma.
- We saw a few police cars and the area feels very friendly, calm and safe
- We met people working with measuring at sea in the Graveor Bay. They sample depth data and positions so you might get interesting information from them!
The name of the company is CSA. Their boat was full of technical equipment and computers!
- We haven’t noticed any major differences between our updated Navionics charts and the reality. I belive reefs and coral heads are mainly in the same place as before but that is only my guess.
Catamaran Think Twice
The main town of Codrington sustained a lot of damage and is still being rebuilt little by little. The anchorages, which are fairly wild are fine and still wonderful to visit. One channel that opened near Low Bay into the lagoon is still open to navigation for shoal draft craft. The main shop in Codrington is open but best you go with everything you need. Cocoa Point hotel is closed, maybe permanently, so you can take advantage and anchor anywhere off the hotel. If you decide to visit Coral Group Bay, approach very carefully as no one I know has been in there since the storm, but I suspect it will be pretty much as it was. You will be able to find someone to give you a Frigate bird tour, but you will have to ask when you get there about restaurants. Barbuda Bell the hotel in the north is being repaired and will not be open this season. Much of the beauty of Barbuda is the wild nature, wonderful beaches and anchorages. These are all available, enjoy!.
Dominica received massive damage and maybe the most cruel blow of all, as the approaching hurricane did not look too bad, then in a few hours it ramped right up to category 5, for which few were prepared., the local population would like to see the return of yachts and the resultant business, On the one hand it is still far from normal, on the other, for the adventurous cruiser, especially those who might want to pitch in and help about the edges, it is an interesting time to visit. You will be welcomed, but expect some rough with the smooth, without too many services. If you are going within the next month and want to take one or more cordless tools as gifts they would be welcome.
All the docks yachts used in the anchorage south of Roseau have been destroyed except for the one at Drop Anchor. Sea Cat uses this to get people ashore. You will still see a lot of washed up tree trunks around and always take care when approaching the anchorage. Marcus has 6 moorings in service, and he provides security in the bay. No other moorings are in service though Sea Cat hopes to get his going soon. Anchorage Hotel, Evergreen Restaurant, Dive Dominica and Alldive have been badly damaged and will probably not be in operation for a while. Roseau itself is coming back to life some shops and restaurants are open, there is a great market on Saturdays. Water can be arranged with Sea Cat, though it will be from a hose ashore at his house. Dominica Marine Services can fill cooking gas tanks and supply diesel and gasoline though this is only by jerry jug at this point. Sea Cat and others can take you on tours. Sea Cat’s natural curiosity has had him going all over the place already so he knows which places are open, including Trafalgar Falls.
The Pays building is being repaired at this point it had no electricity. Electricity is not back for half of Portsmouth at this point. If enough yachts turn up they might run their Sunday Barbecue. Only a handful of PAYS boats are still operational these include Lawrence and Albert. Madiba Restaurant near Pays is open. The moorings are not yet back in place and the security watch will probably not happen till there are more visiting boats, but there has been no problem. Indian River tours are available as are many land tours. The fishing boat dock is okay so getting ashore is no problem. The yacht watering hose is not yet back in place. The chandlery is closed till further notice. They still hope to get things more or less back to normal in February so they can have their Customer appreciation week February 18th-25th. I am happy to say the Point Baptiste chocolate factory survived and Alan has a good stockpile of chocolate as well as cocoa.
Soufriere, page 186, error. Customs overtime is no longer $10 – $15 EC, but is $100 EC like the rst of St. Lucia.
Immigration has moved further down the road and is now opposite the gast station at the head of the main dock.
Golden Rock Dive Center has new owners, Sarah and David Hellevang:
David and I are the happy new owners of Golden Rock Dive Center and are working closely with Glenn and Michele Faires to continue to offer the specialized help to yacht-goers that GRDC has for the last 24 years. I know Glenn is very excited to get back to his Dive Glide!
Welcome to the cruising services community, we’ll see you on the water!
Updates to the 2016/17 guide
General note on Pets in the Caribbean
People throughout the Caribbean use poisons for everything from crabs to nuisance dogs. These are deadly to pets, and quite a few pet owners have lost their companions to poison while walking them ashore. The poisons are attractive to dogs so keep your dog on a leash and watch what it is up to. A muzzle may help but make sure your dog can still pant to stay cool. If your doge gets poisoned, immediate ingestion of a strong sugar/water solution may help until you get to the vet.
The Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security (P.A.Y.S) has opened an office. It is located at the Purple Turtle Beach. They can by contacted at 1 (767) 317 9098 or by email at email@example.com.
Budget Marine is no longer filling Gas bottles, but will probably lend you a cart to take them down the road to Gas King.
Island Water World has announced they will be closing their small outlet in Marina Fort Louis in Marigot at the end of June. All other branches remain open and active!
New Simpson Bay bridges info (for more up to date info try the port):
0830 out 0930 in
1030 out 1130 in
1600 out 1500 in
Causeway Bridge in and out:
This is from February 14, sorry to be so late in posting it:
The Sandy Ground Bridge morning opening time has been changed from 0815 to 0900. There is no monitoring of any VHF channel by any entity for this bridge. The best bet to verify opening times is to hail Shrimpys (net controller of 0730 cruisers net) on channel 10.
The other update is that the cruisers net is now on channel 10 at 0730.
– Margaret Bujnoch, s/v Rocking B
English Harbour on the 17 April; A notice at customs that effective from the 17 April 2014, there is a check out fee of 30 USD for passengers that had been in Antigua for more than 24 hours.
Thanks for the info! Looks like this charge is back on. Last time they had this charge, they called everyone except the skipper a “passenger”. I did not know about it for a long time because I so often single-hand.
Good news for Jolly Harbour. Salty Dogs, the friendly sailors’ bar and restaurant, is moving from the Slipway to Jolly Harbour, where their happy hour will be from 1700-1900. In the new location they will be renting scooters and mountain bikes as well as their paddle-board rentals. They are forming the Antigua Paddle Board Club, with morning paddle session to the harbor entrance; great for some morning exercise!
Page 254 – George Jeffery cell number is 788-7067, not 7076. It is printed correctly on other pages.
The Barrelstay restaurant is now closed permanently.