|

Guadeloupe,
known by the Caribs as Karukera (Island of Pretty Waters), has a
population of 330,000 and is part of France. It is partly agricultural,
with the emphasis on sugar cane, and the local "rhum" is
highly valued in France. Tourism is also important.
Guadeloupe
is composed of two islands in the shape of a lopsided butterfly, with a
river separating the two halves. Whoever named the islands had a sense
of humor, because the larger mountainous one is called "Basse
Terre" (low land) and the smaller low one "Grande Terre"
(large land). Grand Terre is a much older island. It once looked more
like Basse Terre, but over millions of years its mountains have eroded.
Basse Terre is a younger volcanic island. Yachts of up to 6.5-foot draft
can navigate between the two islands on the Rivière Salée.
Guadeloupe
along with its associated islands Marie
Galante, La Desirade and Isles
de la Petite Terre provides a spectacular cruising area with
numerous really wonderful anchorages.
You
should visit the interior, if possible, at least in mountainous Basse
Terre, which has some exceptional views and sites. Route de la
Traversée runs through the national park, smack in the middle of Basse
Terre. The Crayfish Waterfalls are well worth a visit and swim, but make
your way to the upper part to avoid too many tourists. If you are
driving yourself, take the detour to Morne à Louis for the spectacular
view from the top, overlooking Pigeon Island. Some buses that run
between Pointe à Pitre and Pointe Noire take Route de la Traversée .
The
most dramatic destination is the 350-foot Carbet Waterfalls in the south
of Basse Terre. These are the tallest falls I know of in the Eastern
Caribbean. If you rent a car, it is easy to find the car park and you
reach the second falls by a beautiful 30-minute walk on a well laid out
trail through the rain forest. But this is just the beginning as many
hikes have been well laid out in this area. Try the one-hour hike up to
the first falls. This takes you above the rain forest through cloud
forest. These first falls, which are equally as high as the second falls
are very red from the volcano. Whichever fall you hike to, remember to
take your bathing things, they all have good pools below.
Other
attractions in this area are several crater lakes including As de Pique,
shaped like an ace of spades.
Pleasant
countryside of rolling hills covers much of Grand Terre, especially the
northern part, which has a lot of sugar cane and picturesque ruined
windmills.
Pointe
à Pitre, the largest city, has a big marina, excellent chandleries, and
you can get all kinds of boat work done.
click chart to enlarge
since August 05
|