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No
country in the Leewards offers the number of really good anchorages as
those in Antigua and Barbuda. You could cruise for two weeks without
stopping at the same anchorage twice. Although there are sociable places
with amenities, it is the hidden spots where you can be all on your own
that make these islands special. They stay this way because they are
difficult to navigate, and only those highly proficient in reading the
water colors are going to feel comfortable on the eastern and northern
side of Antigua or sailing over to Barbuda. Antigua
and Barbuda are an independent nation with a British tradition and a
population of around 65,000. In the old
days it was hard to find secure ports that were easy to defend, with
immediate access to the trade winds, yet protected enough to careen a
ship, and be safe in a hurricane. Falmouth and English Harbour sit side by
side, almost touching at the closest point, and they meet all these
requirements. Their potential was recognized as early as 1723 and work was
begun on the English Harbour Dockyard. It was completed as it stands today
in around 1745 and was Britain’s main naval station in the Lesser
Antilles. Nelson was stationed here in 1784 under Sir Richard Hughes, who
had recently blinded himself in one eye while chasing a cockroach with a
fork. Nelson eventually took over as naval commander. He did not enjoy
Antigua and did not get on well with Governor General Shirley (after whom
Shirley Heights is named) or the plantocracy, who resented the boring way
in which he insisted on enforcing the Navigation Act. This meant he kept
the port closed to trade for all but British ships. Nonetheless, the
dockyard is now generally known as Nelson’s Dockyard in deference to
Britain’s favorite hero. The
arrival of Nicholson’s Charter Company and the restoration of the ruins
into a beautiful yet functional monument gave momentum to the development
of the yachting industry here. Today these harbors are managed by the
National Parks Authority. They are not only the yachting capital of
Antigua, but a major Caribbean yachting center. English
Harbour and Falmouth attract hundreds of cruising yachts and are the
winter home of many gold-plated charter yachts of sail and power. English
Harbour is prettier; Falmouth Harbour is more convenient for most yacht
services and it attracts more of the larger yachts. A wide range of marine
services and a convivial social scene can be found here, complete with
happy hours and jump up nights. The whole
of Nelson’s Dockyard has been beautifully reconstructed to house hotels,
restaurants, and businesses. It is a fitting scene for Antigua’s main
port of arrival. Falmouth Harbour is considerably larger and surrounded by
hills. It has many more facilities than English Harbour and is favored by
most of the charter yachts, superyachts and larger cruising yachts. Most
places of interest are strung between the Dockyard and the eastern part of
Falmouth, all within a few minutes stroll. Two delightful walks have been laid out in this area. Everyone should take the short path out to Fort Berkely Point by following the trail from just behind the dinghy dock. More adventurous souls should also take the hike up to Shirley Heights which affords magnificent views of both English and Falmouth Harbours. The path is in shade for much of the way with good examples of the local dry vegetation. Dinghy to Columbo’s dock, turn left and follow the road. You will see the footpath on the right posted "To the Lookout." This takes you to the top. Sensible shoes are essential . click to enlarge
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Antigua
