Islands
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From
some angles Nevis looks like a sombrero, peaked in the center
and low around the edges. Clouds usually cap Nevis Peak, which
is over 3000 feet high. On occasion they cling to the summit
and fall down the sides, looking just like snow. Some say this
is why Columbus named it "Nuestra Senora del las
Nieves" (Our Lady of the Snows), after one of his
favorite churches. Early attempts were made to settle the
island from St. Kitts in 1628. The first town, called
Jamestown, was built near Fort Ashby, but it sank into the sea
after an earthquake and tidal wave in 1680. Various battles
between the British and the French hampered development until
1783, when Nevis became British for an extended time. It
flourished as a plantocracy and there are many old plantations
and sugar mills on the island. The old mills are crumbling,
but the plantations have been converted into hotels where
visitors can relive those gracious old days without the evils
of slavery upon which they were built. Two historical figures
associated with Nevis are Alexander Hamilton, who was born
here, and Horatio Nelson, who married Nevisian widow Fanny
Nisbet.
Nevis,
with a population of around 12,000, is quiet and peaceful,
with lovely views, picturesque houses and delightful people.
Exploring the island is highly recommended. Nevisians have
been careful to preserve their architectural heritage and many
traditional Caribbean-style buildings survive.
The
mountain is clad in dense forest and with a suitable
guide you can make it all the way to the peak. The less
energetic should visit the Golden Rock Estate, buy a trail
map, and take a stroll or hike. Going at 1530 will give the
best chance of seeing wild greenback monkeys. Return for tea
in the majestic garden setting of the estate.
Several
people lead historical, plantation tours, and forest tours.
Information on these, bird books, and trail maps are all
available at the Museum of Nevis in Hamilton House.
The
anchorage at the north of town, just off Pinney’s Beach, is
fabulous. Behind a strip of pale ochre sand are miles of palm
trees, whose slender trunks and waving lacy leaves catch the
sunlight. Mt. Nevis ascends into the clouds behind. Gliding
pelicans fold their wings and crash boldly in the sea. St.
Kitts lying to the north, appears to be part of Nevis in a
sweeping panorama. The Four Seasons Hotel on Pinney’s Beach
makes a conspicuous landmark.
click chart to enlarge
since July 05
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Nevis