Northern attractions 
in Dominica

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The Cabrits National Park has well-marked trails. Fort Shirley, an old British fort dating from the 18th century, has been partially restored and there is a small museum. The guiding light in this enterprise is local historian Lennox Honychurch, whose book, The Dominica Story, is a delight to read. If you follow the trail to the top of East Cabrit, you will be rewarded by splendid views over the harbor and surrounding country, including the swamp. The proximity of the swamp makes for interesting bird life on the road leading to the park. You should also hike to the top of West Carbrits for great views of the Saintes and Guadeloupe in clear weather. A large dock and a building for craft vendors on the Cabrits caters to adventure-type cruise ships. Part of this is low enough to be accessible by dinghy, and you may use it as long as no cruise ships are here. When the gates are locked, you can normally walk through the building.

Other major attractions in the north include the Syndicate Rainforest (part of a national park) and Milton (a.k.a. Syndicate) Falls. They can be combined into a long morning or afternoon trip if you use a car. Allow a whole day if you do it by bus and hiking. You can hike Syndicate on your own, but to get to the falls you pass over private land, so you should go with a guide who has permission to use the road. The Syndicate trail is an easy walk, just under a mile long but, depending on the state of the road, you may have to walk a little further. This trail traverses the best example of tropical rain forest in the Leewards. There are many huge and magnificent trees, including one with buttress roots about 35 feet across. The trees form a dense canopy high overhead and there is little undergrowth. If birds are your special interest, then make the effort to contact local forester, Bertram Jno. Baptiste (cell: 245-4768, home: 446-6358), the most knowledgeable bird expert. Bertram is not always easy to get hold of and he will want to start at the crack of dawn to give you the best chance of seeing the two parrot species, the sisserou and the red-necked, which live only in Dominica. He has a good four-wheel drive car to get you there. In the same park area, a rough hiking trail leads up Morne Diablontin and this is a great hike for the energetic.

The walk to Milton Falls takes you along a river, and through lush agricultural land with lovely mountain views. The falls are about 80 feet high and plunge into a pool. You, too, should plunge. The pool is deep enough for a swim, which will leave you feeling refreshed and invigorated. The vegetation is so dense that the sun only reaches the falls at midday, but it is great to go anytime.

Calabishie is on the north coast, not too far from Portsmouth. This picturesque seaside village stands on a white sand beach with extensive shallows, and includes a couple of small restaurants. For those on a tight budget, the bus trip there takes you through some lovely countryside. If you rent a car or take a taxi, the surrounding countryside is delightful and many good beaches are hidden away. This is easy to do on your own.

Martin Carriere took me to the Chaudiere pool, some miles east of Portsmouth. This is one of the Caribbean's most perfect tropical pools, set amid lush vegetation. It is fed by a small waterfall and surrounded by rocks. The water bubbles from the falls, reminding one of a cauldron. The pool is about 15 feet deep and swimming is part of the fun; the adventurous can jump from the cliffs. Part of the charm of this place is that you are likely to have it to yourself; it makes a perfect spot for a picnic lunch. You have to hike 20 minutes down slope. Martin usually combines this with Calibishe and the red rocks as a half-day tour. The red rocks are compacted mud that have been etched into strange gullies and shapes, and feel impermanent under your feet – an interesting and photogenic area with good views.

There is a delightful road from Tanetane to Pennville. It also makes a very lovely, though long, hike. Buses run over here so if you start walking you can end up taking a bus one way or the other, depending on what comes along. Towards the summit you get excellent views over Toucari Bay, Douglas Bay, and Prince Rupert Bay. Right at the top is lovely area between the hills. In this region is a "cold soufriere," a bubbling pool of cold water from a volcanic vent.

Martin combines this road with Hampstead Beach as part of a tour for whose hiking ability is limited. Hampstead Beach is a magnificent wild beach with a big river at one end. You can swim on both the river and the sea. It was one of sets for Pirates of the Caribbean part 2 (as was the Indian River).

If you prefer a long hike on a trail there is a good one from Capuchin to Pennville, along the northern end of the island. Take the bus to Capuchin and ask to be put off at Bellevue. It is the end of the road and you just carry along on the path. The hike takes about 3 hours, through thickly wooded scenery with occasional great views. You can easily get lost at Grand Fond where a tree has fallen over the trail; the wrong turn takes you to a deserted village and orchards where you can find good oranges and grapefruits. We found two delightful small waterfalls with pools where you could swim.

You can rent a car or take a taxi to see the Carib territory (the road goes through Calibishe). The Caribs were fierce warriors who predated the Europeans and for a couple of hundred years kept them at bay. They called the island "Waitikubuli," meaning "Tall is her Body." Caribs were still active here when European settlers colonized the other islands, and one of the hazards facing the settlers was Carib raiding parties.

As their numbers dwindled, some Caribs migrated to South America and the rest were forced into accommodation with the Europeans and given a territory on the windward coast, where you can visit them today. Pure Caribs are Native Americans, rather bronze in color, with Oriental features.

In the Carib territory you can buy handicrafts and see dugout canoes being built by traditional methods. There is also a waterfall on the Crayfish River and you can probably arrange to have someone catch you a pound or two of freshwater crayfish (fisheries permitting).