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Indian River |
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Several islands have navigable rivers (Dominica has at least two) but the Indian River is special to Dominica. This attraction is right in Portsmouth.
A trip up the Indian River is an amazing experience, unlike anything else you find in the Eastern Caribbean. The river quickly narrows and gets completely overhung by huge swamp bloodwood trees on both sides. Their massive roots spread out above the soil and down into the water, twisting and tangling into interesting wavy designs. Here and there, long vines dangle into the river, and as you glide along you see fish below and crabs on both banks. Overhead, the trees form a complete canopy, so it is dark and cathedral-like. This, along with the occasional sounds of insects and birds, creates a magical quality. Many of the herons are quite tame, and there is a chance of seeing iguanas. Be sure to use one of the official guides we mention above. Outboards are not allowed on the river, and do not attempt to take your own dinghy beyond the bridge.
One of the best times to go is early in the morning, before anyone else starts up. This is especially so in late February or early March when the swamp bloodwood trees are in fruit and attract groups of foraging parrots. Or go in the late afternoon, when most of the others have left. A bar at the end of the river is good for a fresh juice or beer if you go hiking.
The Indian River guides have evolved a trip for yachts that takes over two hours, and involves hiking as well as the boat ride. For an extended tour the price is $15 US and well worth it (minimum four people). You also have to pay the national park fee. You can pay $2US per person for a site visit, $5US for an all day pass to all sites (so you can visit the Cabrits as well) or many will benefit the $10US week pass to all sites. You can buy park tickets at the gas station across the road from the Indian River landing. The guide will pick you up from your boat and drop you back afterwards, or later, if you want to visit town.
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