Morne Trois Pitons 
National Park

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Roseau lies close to the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, and is central to many attractions. There are lots of exciting hikes that can be tackled in a variety of ways, depending on your proclivity and budget. For many sites, you will need a park permit. You can get a single visit, day, or weekly pass.

At many sites official guides will approach you. They have had training and are imperative for a few hikes, such as the boiling lake. Other hikes can be done with the trail maps, but you will learn more with a good guide.

Sea Cat, our guide explains the working of Bay Rum distillery

Many of the more visited sites, including Trafalgar Falls and the Emerald Pool, are very popular on cruise ship days. They are still lovely, but best visited early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the crowds have gone.

Victoria Falls, back from the east coast, is a tough enough hike to keep out the crowds. You get to cross the river about five times. This is the highest falls in Dominica, with an impressive volume of water. The water is whitish with high sulfur content, as it comes from the boiling lake. It is lovely for a swim and the sulfur is considered therapeutic for many aches and pains. We went with Sea Cat who swam with us and coaxed us under the slight shelter of a rock on the edge of the falls, where we were treated to a really awesome view of the cascading water. Sea Cat arranged for us to eat Ital food with Moses and Rafael, Rasta brothers (and Pancho's uncles, Pancho can make the same arrangement) who live down by the river. Visiting with them was as impressive as the falls. They have an almost paradisiacal garden by the river; full of local fruits and vegetables, a wandering peacock, and the food was wonderful.

Sari Sari Falls are also off the beaten track, further to the north. You have a pleasant hike amid dense vegetation close to the river. The falls themselves are tall and form a crystal clear pool for swimming below. The area containing the falls is not huge and the falling water creates strong winds so the whole area is drenched in a fine misty spray. Keep your camera well wrapped.

Trafalgar Falls tumble high off the mountainside into lush rain forest, Visit by taxi, bus or on a tour. Sea Cat tells me there is now a naturally hot pool towards the bottom of the falls. Also, for a small fee, you can luxuriate in a hot bath at the nearby Papillote Hotel, which has an extensive tropical garden and is a pleasant place to stop for lunch.

There are two crater lakes set high in Morne Trois Pitons National Park. At this elevation, mists and the coolness of the high mountains stunt the trees but mosses, ferns, and epiphytes thrive, creating a dense moist plant community called elfin or cloud forest. Freshwater Lake, the first one you come to, is the prettier lake, but the hike to Boeri Lake takes you on an enchanting path through the cloud forest. There are many open views down to the coast and the air is cool. The first lake is accessible by car, and you can make it some of the way by bus. This site is generally not crowded. There is also a lovely hike from Freshwater Lake to Grand Fond on the east coast.

Hiking from the Freshwater lake to Grand Fond

The hardest and most unusual hike is to the boiling lake. A good local guide is essential for this one, as it can be a bit hazardous. The round trip takes from seven to nine hours, and is very muddy, so tough shoes are essential. The path takes you through rain forest, over mountain peaks, and into the Valley of Desolation, where you hike for an hour and a half over bare earth in hues of reds, browns, greens and yellows. Steam belches all around and the rocks feel soft and impermanent. For some while you walk on a muddy ridge about 3 feet wide, with precipices on both sides. The wind blows and the earth itself sighs as it lets off steam. The boiling lake is the second largest in the world and is in a 50-yard crater. It belches clouds of steam high into the air. Take a tour, or buses will get you to the nearest village where you can hire an official guide.

Titou Gorge is a broad pool with a hot water spring. It narrows to a sheer deep gorge about 15 feet across. You can swim up the gorge to a waterfall at its head and get behind the falls for a good shower.

Middleham Falls is probably Dominica’s most beautiful waterfall, and since it involves a long hike, is somewhat secluded. The hike passes mainly through rain forest. You can go by tour, taxi or bus. If you do not have a guide, take a trail map. If you start at Laudat, you can walk to the falls and continue onto Cohrane. If you head back towards the coast you will pick up a bus somewhere.

Typical rainforst hiking to Middleham Falls

The photogenic Emerald Pool is set amid tall forest trees with a dense canopy. It is approachable by taxi, tour, or bus. Ask a Castle Bruce bus driver to let you off where the trail starts. You can ask about several restaurants not too far away.

There are also a few private falls where good trails have been built and you can visit for a small fee. Any one of these falls is delightful, though not as dramatic as the major ones. You may meet other hikers, but probably no cruise ship passengers.